Colour mixing is one of the most exciting but frustrating parts of painting. You squeeze out beautiful tube colours, swirl them together with high hopes, and suddenly your vibrant green turns into a dull olive sludge or your bright purple becomes a sad grey-brown.
This "mud" phenomenon frustrates beginners across mediums—acrylic, oil, and watercolour—and even experienced artists occasionally slip up. The good news? Most mixing mistakes stem from a handful of common pitfalls rooted in misunderstandings about pigments, colour theory, or technique. In this in-depth guide, we'll cover the top mistakes everyone makes, explain why they happen (with science and theory), and provide clear fixes. Whether you're working with 2026's trending palettes—bold reds, earthy neutrals, transformative teals, or vivid emeralds—these tips will help you mix confidently and keep colours lively.
We'll draw from real artist experiences, expert advice, and timeless principles to help you avoid frustration and create intentional, harmonious mixes.
The #1 complaint: "Everything turns brown or grey!" This happens when you unintentionally mix complementary colours (opposites on the colour wheel) or overload a pile with too many hues. Why it happens: Complements neutralise each other—red + green, blue + orange, yellow + purple—creating muted neutrals (browns and greys). Adding a third colour often introduces all three primaries, greying further. Overmixing in one pile compounds this.
In acrylics and oils, pigments have biases (warm/cool undertones), so mismatched biases dull results. In watercolours, wet-on-wet blending lets colours run together on paper, creating unintended mud.
Real-life example: Mixing cadmium red (warm) with ultramarine blue (cool, red-biased) for purple often yields dull greyish tones instead of vibrant violet.
Fixes:
With 2026's earthy neutrals (khakis, umbers), intentional mud (subtle browns) is trendy, but know when to keep vibrancy.
You mix "blue + yellow = green" but get murky olive. The issue? Pigments aren't pure—each has a bias.
Why it happens: Blues vary—phthalo (green-biased) + hansa yellow (green-biased) = bright green; ultramarine (red-biased) + cadmium yellow (red-biased) = dull green/brown.
Similarly, reds: cool alizarin crimson + cool blue = vivid purple; warm cadmium red + cool blue = muted. Fixes:
You stir endlessly for uniformity, but vibrancy fades.
Why it happens: In acrylic paints, which dry quickly, constant stirring can incorporate air or lead to over-neutralisation. In oils, overworking flattens chroma. Watercolour overmixing dilutes intensity.
Fixes:
Adding tonnes of white for pastels or black for darks results in chalky, dull mixes.
Why it happens: White desaturates (reduces intensity) and cools; black deadens and greys.
Beginners overuse tube black (often blue-biased) for shadows, losing richness.
Fixes:
Mixing equal parts primaries leads to dark, overpowering colours; stinginess wastes paint.
Why it happens: Dark colours dominate; beginners fear wasting, so add tiny bits incorrectly.
Fixes:
Acrylics dry darker/lighter; oils stay wet longer; watercolours shift with drying.
Fixes:
Diving in without swatches or theory leads to surprises.
Fixes:
Dirty brushes introduce unwanted colours.
Fixes:
Colour- mixing improves with practice and awareness. By avoiding these pitfalls—mud from opposites/overmixing and dullness from wrong biases/white/black overuse—you'll achieve vibrant, intentional colours.
Start small: Mix secondaries cleanly, test biases, and limit piles. Soon, you'll master the art of mixing, even with the bold, grounded palettes of 2026.
Embrace the process—every "mud" teaches something. Happy mixing!